Pricing is the single decision that controls whether an item sells in two days or two months. Most sellers either guess based on what they paid for it (which buyers don't care about) or anchor to the lowest price they saw in a quick scroll (which gives away money they didn't have to).
There's a better method. It takes about five minutes per item and it works for everything from a couch to a set of golf clubs to a KitchenAid mixer.
Step 1: Look Up What's Actually Selling - Not What's Listed
This is the most important distinction in marketplace pricing. A listing price is just a hope. A sold price is data.
On Facebook Marketplace, search for your item, then filter by "Sold" if your device shows it. On KSL, look at the "Sold/Closed" posts. What you're trying to find isn't "what are people asking?" - it's "what did buyers actually pay?"
If you can't find sold comps, search eBay and filter to "Sold Listings." eBay's sold data covers almost every category and reflects what real buyers actually paid in the last 30-90 days. It's the most reliable free pricing database available, even for local marketplace listings.
Look at 5-10 comparable sold listings. Not the same brand, the same condition. A scratched KitchenAid and a pristine one are different items at different prices. Write down the range you see.
Step 2: Set Your Price Based on Condition, Not Sentiment
Once you have a real-world range, position your item within it honestly.
No: What you paid, minus a guess: "I paid $400, so $200 feels fair"
Yes: Comparable sold items, adjusted for condition: "Clean, similar ones sold for $175-$225; mine has a small scratch on the side, so $165"
The rule of thumb most experienced sellers use: price at 50-70% of original retail for items in good condition. Drop to 30-50% for anything with visible wear, missing parts, or significant age. Items that are genuinely like-new and from a recognizable brand can command 70-80% of retail - but only if the listing makes that condition obvious and credible.
Sentimental value is invisible to buyers. It doesn't matter that your grandmother's china was expensive in 1985 or that the treadmill was barely used. What matters is what similar items are selling for right now, in this market, in this condition.
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See Packages & BookStep 3: Build in Negotiation Room - But Not Too Much
Most marketplace buyers expect to negotiate. The smart approach is to price 10-15% above what you'd actually accept, so you have room to give a small discount without going below your floor.
No: Floor price as asking price: Listed at $80, buyer offers $60, you feel squeezed
Yes: 10-15% above floor: Listed at $95, buyer offers $75, you counter at $85, everyone's happy
Don't go more than 20% above your floor. Listings that are obviously overpriced get fewer messages, which signals low desirability to the algorithm - and to other buyers who see "5 views, no messages."
Step 4: Use Price Psychology That Actually Works
Prices that end in 5 consistently outperform round numbers on local marketplaces. $75 gets more messages than $80. $125 outperforms $130. This sounds small, but it's the same psychology retail uses - the brain reads $75 as meaningfully less than $80 even though the difference is negligible.
Avoid ending in 9 on marketplace listings (like $79 or $49). That pattern is associated with retail and can read as oddly aggressive for a casual person-to-person sale. End in 5 or 0, with a slight lean toward 5 for items under $150.
Step 5: Know When to Hold, When to Drop, and When to Relist
If an item has 50+ views and no messages: the price is fine but something else is wrong - usually photos, title, or description. Lower price won't fix a trust problem.
If an item has under 20 views after a week: either the price is too high and you're not showing up in searches, or the title isn't descriptive enough. Try dropping 10-15% and refreshing the listing.
If an item has views and messages but no one follows through: the price is probably right but the friction is wrong - meeting location, pickup timing, or a detail that's creating hesitation. Don't drop the price; fix the pickup friction instead.
After two weeks with no sale, relist. New listings get a boost in the algorithm. Renewing an old listing doesn't get the same visibility as posting fresh.
The Hardest Items to Price (And What to Do)
Furniture: Prices vary wildly by location. Utah County buyers are often looking for deals because of the large household sizes and frequent moves. Check local comps first; national eBay prices may be higher than what your market will bear.
Electronics: Check eBay sold listings, then price 10-15% lower for local marketplace because buyers want the convenience discount for avoiding shipping.
Clothing: Unless it's name-brand and in excellent condition, most clothing sells for $3-$10 per piece. Bundle items in the same style or size range - it sells faster and at a better per-item rate than pricing individually.
Specialty or collectible items: Search eBay sold, not Facebook. eBay has a national audience for collectibles, and you may get more by listing there. For local, price at the low end of sold comps to move it quickly.
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UtahLister researches comps, sets prices, and writes your listings - ready to post.
The pricing research alone takes most sellers an hour per category. UtahLister does it as part of every listing package so you don't have to guess, second-guess, or leave money behind.
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